25 July 2008
Bayous, Beignets & Brown Roux
Posted by admin under: New Orleans .
To truly appreciate New Orleans, you have to experience
its unique cuisine.
The following article appears on the AAA (American Automobile Association) website and shares some interesting insight about the origin of Cajun and Creole cuisine.
By Sharon Picone
“New Orleans food is as delicious as the less criminal forms of sin.” Mark Twain penned these words in 1884. And if you have ever had the pleasure of relaxing in the French Quarter sipping café au lait while savoring scrumptious golden-fried beignets blanketed in powdered sugar—a signature New Orleans pastry—you will know this is true. Upon biting into the square and hollow confections, the sugar puffs and floats like a cloud before releasing its sweet flavor. In that moment, it’s clear why the people of New Orleans possess joie de vivre, or “joy of living.” With fare so outstanding, it’s easy being happy. But before we chat about traditional south Louisiana food, let’s explore the history that set the scene of Cajun and Creole cuisines as we know them today.
To dispel any confusion, let me clarify and say that Cajun and Creole cultures and cuisines are quite different. Though they incorporate some similar ingredients for many of their dishes—such as filé powder—Creole is haute cuisine that reflects the African, Caribbean, French, German, Italian and Spanish influences apparent around New Orleans in the late 1600s. Cajun is country-style cooking characterized by one-pot meals using wild game, fish, shellfish, corn, rice or vegetables. Both cuisines exhibit culinary finesse.
The Creoles, descendants of the European elite, arrived in the 1690s by invitation of the Spanish to establish New Orleans. They brought with them their wealth, education, chefs and cooks as well as culinary techniques. In sharp contrast are the French refugees who were exiled by the Brits from Acadia, Nova Scotia, in 1755. Later called Cajuns, they retreated to the bayous and swamps of Louisiana, befriending the American Indians and learning from them about new ingredients, herbs and cooking techniques. Maque-chou, a stewed concoction comprising sweet peppers, onions and tomatoes as well as coush-coush made from dried ground corn are examples of the American Indian influence.
Contrary to general belief, Cajun cuisine typically is not spicy-hot. Though Cajun dishes are spicier than their Creole counterparts, seasonings are incorporated to enhance, not dominate, the flavor of ingredients. The dark brown roux and complementary amalgam of chopped celery, bell peppers and onions (called the “holy trinity” and also used in Creole dishes) are key in adding richness and flavor to many foods. Vegetables feature conspicuously and the Cajuns are experts at preparing them in a variety of ways such as in sauces, sautéed and stuffed. Alternatively, butter and cream along with generous amounts of tomatoes punctuate Creole cuisine.
Most Americans, even if they have never visited Louisiana, associate gumbo, étouffée and jambalaya with classic Louisiana fare, and like most global cuisines, these dishes evolved through an integration of overlapping cultures. An eye on future trends shows new chefs putting a contemporary spin on preparing and combining ingredients while still honoring traditional south Louisiana cuisine. Mark Twain would approve. But no matter what the trends, New Orleans embodies and will always embody a sense of joy and an appreciation of good food and good times.
Laissez le Bon Temps Roulez! Let the good times roll!
AAA travel editor Sharon Picone is a self-confessed foodie and gourmand with more than 25 years of food-related experience. In the early 90’s, she spent 2 years backpacking and eating her way through Europe. When she’s not spending hours in the kitchen creating new recipes, you can find her teaching cooking classes or poring over wine and culinary books and magazines. Among her favorite foods are cheese blintzes and koeksisters (a South African syrup-soaked, doughnut-like pastry that is sinfully good). She considers the Cape Winelands, with its stunning mountain ranges, historic Cape Dutch homesteads, more than 300 wine estates and exceptional food, the ultimate experience for travel enthusiasts and epicures.
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