Sharon Picone

27 February 2009

Destination Orlando: Ceviche Tapas Bar & Restaurant

Posted by sharon under: ARTICLES; Eateries; Local .

CEVICHE (seh-VEE-cheh)—an appetizer of raw fish that is “cooked” in citrus juice (usually lime, but sometimes lemon) and turns the flesh opaque in the process. Ceviche—also the name of a tapas restaurant occupying the space of former Lily Marlene’s in historic downtown Orlando. While strolling through Church Street recently, I discovered the restaurant quite by accident, and I am thrilled that I did.

If you are not familiar with a tapas bar, let me explain. Tapas are appetizers popular in bars and restaurants throughout Spain. At Ceviche, the idea is to sample a variety of tapas that form an entire meal to share with your partner or group at the table. If it’s your first visit, I recommend starting out with a total of just three or four dishes—you can always order more as your meal progresses (your server leaves a menu at your table for this purpose). Depending on what you order, each dish typically provides two generous servings. To take the edge off your hunger, you will also receive tender-soft bread and a herb pesto dip on the house, so give yourself a few minutes to savour these before you place your order.

Despite Ceviche’s spacious interior and cathedral ceiling, the wood floor and earth tones in the décor coupled with ambient lighting create a space that is surprisingly intimate and welcoming. Splashes of Spanish ceramic tile punctuate the walls along with a large mural, or two, depicting flamenco dancers. The menu is extensive (it lists more than 100 items) and offers fish, seafood, meat and vegetable choices. As a vegetarian, I am interested only in the meatless dishes.


A consummate cheese junkie, I jumpstart my dining experience with the Queso de Cabra: baked goat cheese with diced tomato and a fresh basil leaf drizzled with virgin olive oil. Served warm with toasted sourdough rounds, the soft, luscious mild cheese is the perfect foil for the just-picked freshness of the vegetable, herb and olive oil combo. I’d even go so far as to say that it’s the best cheese appetizer I have had in a few years (be aware that the sourdough bread hardens as it cools, so if this does not appeal to you, use instead the bread that accompanies your herb pesto dip. Your server will happily replenish the bread and dip at your request).



Still noshing, my second choice—Patatas Bravas—is placed before me. Consisting of fried potatoes tossed in a garlic mayonnaise called aioli, this dish is so flavourful and intensely garlicky that I attempt to re-create it at home the very next day (and quite successfully I’m proud to say). If you love garlic and are not averse to a lingering albeit pleasant aftertaste, these potatoes are a must. At the time of writing, it is hands-down one of my favourite choices on the menu.



Next up, Vegetales a la Parrilla comprise a medley of well-seasoned, grilled squash, eggplant, mushroom, onion, bell peppers and asparagus drizzled with virgin olive oil (the Spanish, it seems, adore their olive oil). Maybe it’s the unfussy preparation that makes this dish so appealing to me, but the flavours of each vegetable really shine. Delicious!

My fourth choice—Gazpacho Andaluz — is an Andalusian-style cold uncooked vegetable soup that is a symbol for all things summer. Not a fan of cold soups (my husband persuaded me to try it), I reluctantly sample a smidgen before rendering my verdict. Jackpot. I did not expect to like it but the puréed tomatoes, bell peppers and extra virgin olive oil (there’s that olive oil again!) with a titillating spicy smack really hit the spot. A garnish of diced fresh green bell pepper, onion, cherry tomato and cucumber adds a refreshing touch that is both pleasing to the eye and palate.

To round out my dinner, I ignore my customary decision to forego dessert and decide to throw caution to the wind (an extra thirty minutes on the stationary bike won’t kill me). Several desserts catch my eye and I see a couple of my favourites, such as flan and bread pudding. However, I reason that since I’m being adventurous, I might as well choose something out-of-the-ordinary. My final decision is Almendrado—an almond-scented creamy filling nestled inside a warm flaky croissant and topped with vanilla ice cream that makes my taste buds sing. If you are willing, the pastry’s generous size makes it a good choice to share with your partner.

If you want to make a night of it, the flamenco bar, adjacent to the restaurant in the former Rosie O’Grady’s, features regular dance performances and Spanish guitarists. Don’t wait another minute! Get over to Ceviche and experience a taste of Spain. And if you have your own favourite tapas place, I’d love to hear about it.

Ceviche is at 125 W. Church St. (corner of Garland and Church St.). There are also three other locations in Tampa, St. Pete and Sarasota.

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