28 January 2010
New York: A Culinary Cauldron of Eclectic Flavors
Posted by sharon under: New York; Regional Cuisines .
New York, with its bustling masses and imposing skyscrapers, is an intoxicating city that can be rather overwhelming for the uninitiated traveler. But New York is also blessed with a scintillating food scene that is like a molten chocolate dessert: once you dip into its crusty exterior, you are rewarded with a sublime treat. A mélange of Shaker, German, Polish, Eastern European, French Canadian, Italian and Jewish influences results in a culinary cauldron that reflects the city’s eclectic past.
New York’s culinary integration began in the early 1600s with the arrival of the Dutch, who introduced grain to the New World. Along with wheat, dairy products formed the crux of their cuisine and they became masters at transforming cheese, milk and butter along with sugar—a luxury at the time—
into delectable cakes, pastries and breads. Spices, chocolate, wines and brandies all found their way into baked goods and confectionery, all enjoyed with tea. Not surprisingly, the Dutch also started the first public bakeries in America in 1656. By law, no cookies or cakes could be sold unless both white and whole-grained loaves were also available.
A second force with great impact on the food of New York was the arrival of the first Shakers from England in 1774. Spearheaded by Mother Ann Lee, the esoteric group pioneered many discoveries: inventions include the cheese press and water-powered butter churn as well as gadgets for shelling peas, and paring, coring and quartering apples. They also developed a basic baking mix by combining flour, baking powder, salt and shortening, which could be converted to biscuits, pancakes or muffins after adding liquid. Their prowess extended to herbs (rosemary, savory, basil, chives, chervil and thyme were typically used by Shaker cooks) and produce. They cultivated new species of fruits and vegetables and established plant nurseries, where they developed seeds. The Shakers were among the first proponents for grinding the entire wheat kernel into flour, thereby creating whole wheat flour. Another advocate for the nutritional properties of whole wheat was food evangelist, Sylvester Graham, who developed Graham bread and the Graham cracker in the late 1830s.
Since New York was a major embarkation port for European immigrants, it’s only natural that the state evolved into a gastronomic goldmine of ethnic foods: the Germans with their raisin-studded baked tarts; the Polish brought their pierogi; the Greeks and Russians introduced their kulich, a rich yeast cake with almonds often served during Easter; the French Canadians contributed their cassoulet; the Italians, primarily from southern Italy, brought their cooking traditions and liberal use of tomatoes and olive oil; and the Jews shared their pastrami, gefilte fish, latkes and blintzes with sour cream. New York’s irregular coastline provided harbors and inlets abundant with seafood, especially oysters and lobsters. As the population of Manhattan grew, so did the need for fish markets. Even though smaller ones existed, a centralized market did not originate until the mid-1700s, when Beekman landfill near the East River was completed. It became known as the Fulton Fish Market and is still operating. In November 2005, it moved from downtown Manhattan to larger premises in the Hunts Point section of the Bronx and changed its name to the New Fulton Fish Market Cooperative.
As an acclaimed dining destination, New York has no shortage of eating establishments, a trend that started in the late 1700s. Examples of quintessential eateries are the delicatessens and pizzerias—symbols of the city’s ethnic influences. Originating from New York and proof that the city has always been at the forefront of the food revolution are well-known dishes such as Delmonico steak, baked Alaska and Waldorf salad as well as brand name products Philadelphia cream cheese, “Jell-O” and Knox gelatin. Another first was Saratoga chips: the ancestor of potato chips.
Today, New York continues to set trends and the Hudson River Valley has become a veritable cornucopia of gourmet produce and exotic and specialty comestibles. In 2008, New York took the lead in requiring chain restaurants to post calorie counts on their menus in an attempt to curb obesity.
Though New York’s cuisine cannot be pigeon-holed, the beauty of its offerings lies in its diversity: you cannot help but be smitten by the smells and tastes of this vibrant metropolis. Come see for yourself and “dig in.” This seemingly crusty city is really just a (molten) softy inside.
A former Travel Editor, Sharon Picone is a self-confessed foodie and gourmand with more than 25 years of food-related experience. In the early 90’s, she spent 2 years backpacking and eating her way through Europe. When she’s not spending hours in the kitchen creating new recipes, you can find her teaching cooking classes or poring over wine and culinary books and magazines. Among her favorite foods are koeksisters (a South African syrup-soaked, doughnut-like pastry that is sinfully good). She considers the Cape Winelands, with its stunning mountain ranges, historic Cape Dutch homesteads, more than 300 wine estates and exceptional food, the ultimate experience for travel enthusiasts and epicures.
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